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The month of July brought the end of a
wonderful sejour at the office of Didier Repellin (AEC Archi Euro
Conseil) in Lyon and the start at the office of Pierre Antoine
Gatier in Paris. It also brought the celebration of the 4th of
July with the American Club in Lyon, and a relaxing visit with
distant cousins for Bastille Day.
Architecturally my visits continue to span
the richness of history in France.

Le Corbusier’s buildings are reaching their
50 year anniversaries, and perhaps as a testament to the
construction of the modern era, many are being restored. The
complex at Firminy is both being restored and completed. The
church construction was not finished. The base is being
restored by Jean Francois Grange Chavanis, (AEC), while the
completion of the church is being performed by an architect who once
worked with Le Corbusier.

The last day of site visits in Lyon included
a creative conversion of a ruined church on the Ile de Barbe.
The church disappeared during the revolution (they were very busy
removing buildings) and all that remained are fragments of the
walls. In the 1800s one wall was essentially turned inside
out: the exterior wall became the inside wall for a home,
leaving the more elaborate interior face as the new facade.
This home is now being converted by the architecture firm Archipat
into apartments.

I had the pleasure of being a guest critic at the final
presentations of the Ecole de Chaillot restoration program.
The student projects addressed the concerns of a small village of
Tonnerre, which is of historic importance due to a natural spring
and water basin which brought markets and commerce and early
industry to the Chablis region. The industry has left, and now
have many of the people, and now the discussion is open as to how to
save or convert or reinvigorate the town.

A quick trip to Germany diversified my architectural and language
experience of this trip. I have been speaking French every day
and it was a bit disconcerting to suddenly be illiterate.
Germany was wonderful, but I was happy to return to France.

A visit to the Bourgogne region for the 14
juillet holiday reunited me with distant cousins - but the family
connection is still there, and all were so welcoming. A
sketching lesson may have inspired a new artist or even young
architect!

Architectural tourism in the Bourgogne
region included visits, cultural enhancement and sketching sessions
at the Chateau de Sens, Vezelay, and the many many small churches,
abbayes, and lovely vistas along the way.

Relaxation complete, it was now time to start the second stage of
the Fellowship. The office of Pierre Antoine Gatier in Paris
is close to St Germain des Pres and my morning commute includes a
walk through the Tuilleries and across the Seine at the Pont des
Arts. A fine way to start any day!

The distribution of regions of responsibility for the architects
en Chef does not necessarily correspond with where their offices and
lives are located. The second day with Pierre Antoine Gatier
involved a TGV ride from Paris to the Rhone Alps region south of
Lyon. The projects of the visit were interesting in that their
deterioration is so extensive and yet they still have viable hope
for restoration. One, pictured here, is a bridge which is
important for the technology used to create the
steel cables for suspension. The steel is structurally suspect and the
wood platform is practically non-existent. However, the bridge is one of the sole
links between two towns. The challenge: a structural innovation sensitive to
the historic fabric, a re-creation in kind with today’s materials, or a totally new
bridge.

This office is also involved with several Le Corbusier projects,
including the restoration of the Le Corbusier foundation.
The site visit allowed some time to appreciate
the rue Robert Mallet Stevens located in the same neighborhood.
The Paris Observatory in Menton is a restoration that is also
taking advantage of the building technology. It was originally
a chateau, which was destroyed in a fire. An early 19th
century innovation converted the main parti or section into an
observatory. The copper roof requires replacement, but the
steel structure and mechanisms still function. For this
reason, only half of the scaffolding is required to be constructed
because the roof still turns, and at the completion of the first
half, they will rotate the dome and start again. Light
pollution has made the observatory obsolete, but it will become a
teaching center and museum.
Next week’s excitement will include a visit to the Chateau
Chantilly, a recent award to the firm - and perhaps plans to visit
projects in Nice if everyone hasn’t started vacation yet.
Today I finished my first sketchbook of the trip - a moment of
accomplishment, and hopeful progress. A fitting subject is the
Seine with Notre Dame - an iconic view of Paris.
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